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PostPosted: Sun Dec 27, 2015 11:55 am 
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I have a 14" Craftsman bandsaw and am replacing my drive belt. I have the option to set the blade speed at either 1620 or 3340 ft/min. I actually use my table saw more than my bandsaw, but do use my bandsaw to make the taper cut for separating the head piece from the neck shaft prior to glue up and to cut thicker pieces of wood. Was wondering what speed most of you prefer - the slower speed? Thanks.



These users thanked the author mkellyvrod for the post: Mike2E (Tue Dec 29, 2015 5:02 pm)
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 27, 2015 6:51 pm 
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When I started sawing soundboard products nearly 20 years ago, I battled with getting my brand new grizzly 20" bandsaw to cut straight. As I sought council from one source to another, I learned that band speed measured in feet per minute was optimum based on wheel size. I remember finding a great webpage with that info. A search should be fruitful for you.. It turned out my Grizzly saw was running way too slow. I replaced the drive pully to get the speed, but then had to replace the 3hp motor with 5hp to supply the needed torque. We still have the saw to use for little trim jobs. But all our production is with 42" mAchines with 15hp drive motors.



These users thanked the author Alaska Splty Woods for the post: mkellyvrod (Mon Dec 28, 2015 2:24 pm)
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 27, 2015 7:25 pm 
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I have a Craftsman 14" as well, Martin.
This exact saw is also sold under the Rikon name.
The Rikon manual has more setup detail in it, but it says slow speed for hardwood, fast for softwood. Whatever that means.
I've been using slow speed with crummy results sawing thick stock.
Maybe I'll goose it up to compare.
Dan

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These users thanked the author dzsmith for the post: mkellyvrod (Mon Dec 28, 2015 2:24 pm)
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 28, 2015 12:14 pm 
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Well maybe they are referring to the speed you feed the stock to saw? Unless you have a variable speed motor and a reostat switch to actually a just bandsaw feet per min. I have never seen that though


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 28, 2015 1:01 pm 
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I've always run at 3000 fpm +/- We use blades from these folks.

http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/wood ... staff.html

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These users thanked the author kencierp for the post (total 2): Mike2E (Tue Dec 29, 2015 4:47 pm) • mkellyvrod (Mon Dec 28, 2015 2:24 pm)
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 28, 2015 2:27 pm 
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Guys, thanks for the responses.
Ken, appreicate the link you provided - their suggestion is to run the speed as close to 3000 ft/min as the system allows, so I'll be adjusting my belt to run the saw at 3340.


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 28, 2015 3:23 pm 
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I've always found for wood faster is better.


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 28, 2015 4:27 pm 
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So your saw machine has multiple sheaves/pully sizes like my drill press, to adjust wheel-saw speed?


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 28, 2015 7:44 pm 
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Quote:
So your saw machine has multiple sheaves/pully sizes like my drill press, to adjust wheel-saw speed?


Yes - just two speeds

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 28, 2015 8:09 pm 
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Yes, Craig. What Ken said. It's really not an easy adjustment (like on the drill press), the belt is on the inside of the drive wheel. Actually had to remove the drive wheel to get at my shredded belt to remove it. When I put the new belt on, I'll set it for the higher speed with the idea that I won't mess with it again until the next belt goes.


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 28, 2015 8:22 pm 
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Isn't it true that bandsaws with multiple speed options use the lower speed for cutting metal? Then the faster pulley option is for wood...


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 28, 2015 8:25 pm 
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Mike that is what the link that Ken provided said.

http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/wood ... staff.html


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 28, 2015 9:51 pm 
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Well, I'm doing a blade change soon, so I'll goose up the speed.
Seems like the user manual could provide some info other than don't do this or that safety related stuff.
Now if I knew how tight the blade should be, I'd be in good shape.
The manual says to tighten it until it makes a musical note when plucked, but it does not say which note.
Thanks for the info,
Dan

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 28, 2015 10:28 pm 
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If your machine has springs on the tensioning head, compress them to 50% would be a great start. Then fine adjust to take the dance out our the saw as its running full speed. But if your saw has a crooked weld, it will dance anyway. A dancing saw is unsafe, for one reason, you won't notice when there may be cracks developing in the gullets, that will cause that telltale sign.


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 29, 2015 12:38 am 
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I think that Highland Hardware has a writeup on how to tension the blade.
They start out with guides open and minimum tension.
Loosen tension until the blade dances around, then tighten until the blade pulls in straight and that is the minimum blade tension.
Set your guides.

Bob :ugeek:


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 29, 2015 2:02 am 
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It's true that a bimetal blade can cut non-ferrous at ~1500 fpm, but I've found the blades do not last very long. Coolant/lube makes a big difference, of course, but makes even more of a mess to clean up after. Carbide would be a different story.

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 29, 2015 5:04 pm 
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I have an 18" Delta copy from Taiwan, (It has a Delta manual ) it it is running at 2300, but will change speeds up to 3250 based on the link, thanks to Ken.
I have to reposition the blade wheels to change speeds which is why I left it as is since buying it. So after a look, I don't have to reposition the blade wheels. Just loosen the mother and lift, move the belt, drop the motor.
When I cut larger wood stock, I learned that "spray and cook" is a good lubricant for wood.
Thanks Ken for the link and mkellyvrod for the question
I learn so much on this forum.
Did a few cuts on various bits of scrap, and it seems better.


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